Not exactly the way I done it Ash.
As explained on top post, the original bolts (91) were through the wood and grp but were loose due to wood swelling shrinking several times over the last 30yrs and they let water in, also they would not have been effective in clamping the deck overlap to hull joint.
Once the wood and old bolts were removed I drilled new holes (81) in a single row through deck overlap and hull grp only. then using 6mm button head machine screws with monel and neoprene washers I bolted the two laminates together tightly.
I then routered out a groove on the back side of new strake to clear the heads of these machine screws, several coats of varnish applied to the back of new strake, I then drilled recessed holes and clearence holes in it and pilot holes through grp and used No12 self tappers (81) to screw the new strake on, the self tappers obviously go through both laminates as well.
I only applied a heavy bead of sikaflex to the upper back mating face of strake as I discovered that the sealant applied to the lower section of old strake served to trap water behind strake which accelerated the rot, and allowed the water to stream inboard along the loose bolts
The back of the old strake was also rebated (like a L) so the lower edge tucked in against the hull under the bottom edge of the deck overlap this part of the strake was rotted to pulp, again because water getting behind at the top got trapped at the bottom, (dirt grime etc)
I dident rebate the new strake which gives the lower back section a nice clearence from the hull and allows any water getting in at top to drain out as quick.
Now to cut and fit 80 plugs before starting the other side.
I probably spent longer (4yrs) considering the do's and donts of the job in my mind than actually doing it, but I am satisfied that it is now stronger and more water tight then it ever was.
Hope you approve Ash!
C_W
