Varnishing Tips - Satin Finish

[BlowingOldBoots]

I have a new saloon table and a bit of new cabin sole. What is the best way to get a satin finish, plus varnish manufacturers recommendations. I am a lazy boat owner and would prefer not to apply lots of coats of varnish. The saloon table doesn't have to be a demonstration of concours finishing. It must be varnished, not painted.

1. Can varnish be rolled on, if so, what's the best way?
2. Will rolled on varnish flow out or do I need to tip off, if I need to tip off, what is the best way to do this?
3. What is the minimum number of coats?
4. Should the first coat be diluted with thinners to soak in, if so, at what ratio of varnish to thinners?
5. If sanding between coats, what grade and type of sandpaper should I use?
6. How should I prepare the ply surface to start varnishing onto?
7. Any other tips to keep it easy and fast, as I am not interested in many, many coats and the time to takes to do that.

Thanks,

Alastair

[wully]

I’ve only tried varnishing inside a boat once and got reasonable results. When I read up on it before I started the main consideration was to have a stable, warm, dry dust free workspace so that ruled out winter work unless you were in a heated shed..
If I was doing a saloon table I’d do it at home (when the boss was away for a few days...)

[Gardenshed]

use YouTube, then google "how to varnish" then disappear down a rabbit hole of contradictory opinions whilst emptying your stash of single malt.

I varnished a cockpit table (at home) which was many coats of epifanes gloss varnish with 250 grit sanding between coats and then in beside the boiler after each coat for curing/drying.

I year later I was informed that it was "too shiny" and could I do a satin finish

so

sanded it all off, epifanes satin finish, slapped it on, tipped it off (fine bristle brush) 3 coats with a quick rub of 250 grit sand paper and its fine.

real lesson is: if you don't like the result, sand it off and start again. its therapeutic, and only you will notice the blemishes.

more important is ti remove all fittings/hinges so that there is no overspill or reside on them

[Gardenshed]

the Epifanes satin may actually have been Deks Olje! much easier to apply and build up a coating and no sanding between coats

[BlowingOldBoots]

Thanks Wully and Gardenshed for the advice.

The table has been fitted so it will need to be varnished inside the boat as the top has been glued around the mast support with an invisible joint. I'll remove what I can and bring home. There is a product called Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (Cold Weather Formula), that I have used in the past. It makes a great barrier on wood to moisture and a secure base for painting and varnishing on. I'll spend a weekend on the boat, get the cabin up to temperature, clean the table top, remove dust and apply the penetrating epoxy (2 x coats). I'll probably wait until warm spring days and varnish then. I like your approach Gardenshed to the satin finish, 4 coats of slap on is my idea of maximum effort

I also had cabin sole replaced in places as it was a patchwork of hatches that served no purpose. The table, made my A&R Way Boatbuilding at Loch Gilphead.

[wully]

That’s a thing of beauty!

I read somewhere some bloke was varnishing inside his boat in winter. He had stripped all the soft furnishings out the saloon, insulated the hatches (bubble wrap maybe) switched on the electric radiators ( no hot air heating as it could cause dust to be blow about, sealed the companionway, stripped off his clothes (in case of fluff) and varnished in the scud then sat reading a book until it was dry....

[Gardenshed]

That’s a thing of beauty!

I read somewhere some bloke was varnishing inside his boat in winter. He had stripped all the soft furnishings out the saloon, insulated the hatches (bubble wrap maybe) switched on the electric radiators ( no hot air heating as it could cause dust to be blow about, sealed the companionway, stripped off his clothes (in case of fluff) and varnished in the scud then sat reading a book until it was dry....

Aye right…..

We’ll no have that behaviour in Craobh Haven

[BlowingOldBoots]

That’s a thing of beauty!

I read somewhere some bloke was varnishing inside his boat in winter. He had stripped all the soft furnishings out the saloon, insulated the hatches (bubble wrap maybe) switched on the electric radiators ( no hot air heating as it could cause dust to be blow about, sealed the companionway, stripped off his clothes (in case of fluff) and varnished in the scud then sat reading a book until it was dry....

Aye right…..

We’ll no have that behaviour in Craobh Haven

We are talking about trot A, Gardenshed, a lot of strange going-ons at times.

[Gardenshed]

What goes on, on trot A, stays on trot A....

[wully]

I’m staying the fcuk away from .Craobh until the varnishing is well and truly complete..

[BlowingOldBoots]

What goes on, on trot A, stays on trot A....

I’m staying the fcuk away from .Craobh until the varnishing is well and truly complete..

[Bodach na mara]

If you are still looking for varnishing tips, on TOP a poster called Concerto had a thread on that subject which links to a PowerPoint presentation of his project. I was fortunate enough to watch the presentation on Zoom courtesy of the Westerly Owners Association east coast branch.

He didn't use varnish but used a lacquer from Merrels which is available in various grades of reflectivity. It is the stuff that Westerly, Moody and other British boat builders used. If I remember correctly the grade used was 60% reflectivity.

Personally I have had good results with Ronseal exterior grade satin finish applied with a soft paintbrush. And it comes in small cans. Last time I looked Merrels lacquer came in 5-litre cans

[Bodach na mara]

Lovely table by the way.