Changes in the cruising culture

[Nick]

One of the reasons we have decided to modify our current cruise is almost certainly an unanticipated collapse of morale caused by lack of support from fellow cruisers.

Going down the Portuguese coast we met many fellow travellers, some on their way to the Med, some just to off to Winter in the Algarve and a few (a minority of those we met) to cross the pond - but all with a common purpose at that point. The craik was by and large good and when you came in somewhere new there was a familiar face.

Since we left the mainland this has vanished, and by and large it has been a relatively solitary existence for us. There are no other boats under 30 ft doing this for a start. There are few Brits - most of them went on the ARC. Brits we have seen here are pretty self-sufficient or are long-term residents themselves, having also turned back at the edge. As they have been here a long time they have their friends and routines.

There are a lot of French, but they are unsurprisingly a bit cliquey, and when Valerie and Manuel - who we had met in Cascais - turned up here for a few days before heading South we went round to let them know we were here and to invite them over, but there were more than enough French boats to keep them company. Ditto the Germans.

Also - there is the internet. Everyone is much more self sufficient. When I wanted to find out if the planned marina in Santa Cruz de la Palma was open did I ask a fellow cruiser? No chance, I Googled it and then clicked through and looked it up on Noonsite. Everyone is in touch with home and with absent friends and has all mankind's knowledge at their fingertips(quite literally) - so the need to make friends with other boats on your pontoon is greatly reduced.

We only set off last week because we had been in company with Kilmeny, another small boat with just a couple on it. Sadly our paths have now diverged, but for a short while we encouraged each other and helped keep each others' dreams alive. This seems to be the exception rather than the rule. Boats are bigger, with internet and satellite comms, and people are less sociable as a result.

This is just what we have found on this trip . . . people were much friendlier on our trip round Ireland. On reflection though we didn't speak to other boats much during our two weeks in the BVI in 2004 either.

How do the rest of you feel this is reflected cruising around the UK or further afield, are people more self-sufficient and less friendly than they were before, or should I wash my underwear more often?

[Silkie]

.. wonderful though it is but you should also wash your underwear more often.

When the Dr. Pyes and their ilk set out there were no rescue services and their relatives knew to expect no contact for several months. The only assistance they could reasonably expect was from other cruisers they met long the way. Nowadays it is seen as almost perversely Luddite to cross an ocean without several satcom devices.

I wonder if it is possible, any more, to make the kind of voyage that we (all?) dream of?

[Nick]

I wonder if it is possible, any more, to make the kind of voyage that we (all?) dream of?

It is a different world. About to set off happily for the Cape Verdes we foolishly log in to YBW's Liveaboard forum and read that six people off three 65ft boats had been mugged in November. A week earlier I had e-mailed the manager of 'marina' MIdelo and been informed that there had been no thefts off boats this year.

As you know I am a great fan of the intertitty as my friend Ruth calls it, but GRIB files can paralyse whole fleets of cruisers for weeks and doom is only a mouse click away for all of us.

In the meantime, the last time a cruiser spoke to me was in this internet carafe last night to say:

"excusez moi but ma batteri iz about to expire . . . could you pliz remove yours and let mi plug mine in?"

AND - in over 2000 miles we have only seen two cruisng boats smaller than Fairwinds, both crewed by singlehanders under 30 . . .

Eric Hiscock is nae doot revolving rapidly in his grave

[claymore]

In Life, the questions are more important than the answers.
You've probably got some answers to questions you never knew were in your head
I think what you have learned thus far, represents a far greater journey in terms of self discovery than any set of ocean miles could possibly give - the oceans will always be there, but our lifespan is quite short and so many of us live increasingly without challenge and the knowledge that that brings.
Venture hamewards noo - ye need travel foreign and friendless shores nae mair.

[Nick]

Yer philosophical musings are as usual bang on the button - have you been talking to Rene recently perchance?

That notwithstanding, . . foreign and friendless our current shores may be, but they are also at an air temp of 24 deg and a water temp of 21 deg with moderate sailing breezes and cheap beer, so maybe we will bide a while before heading North for the back end of the Scottish sailing season.

Yon wee Silkie is threatening to come down and sail these friendless shores a wee bit wi´us as well . . .

We are keen to visit the Azores on the way home, but Kathy will have the plums and I will have the cheese.

As usual it is a joy to hear from you . . . our only disappointment at the moment is that we will miss ra chentlemans cruise this year, but hopefullly we can get together in home waters for an end of season shindig and make a complete disgrace of ourselves.

[claymore]

Ye big saftie

Ah'll hev ye know tha' it wiz 22 degrees this summer oan Canna. - ye canna beat that

Keep in touch with yourself and all the best for 2007