Dinghy Valve Repair

[Old_Glow_In_The_Deep]

I’ve replaced all the valves on my dinghy (4 of) over the last four years.
The main problem is that the little piece of plastic which is pushed upwards by a spring breaks, is then ejected by the spring resulting in deflation and loss of central component (plastic disc & rubber seal with / on spindle).

The fix:
Unscrew the upper / outer section of valve with a pair of long-nose pliers, do not need one of those (breaks at first use) plastic spanners / valve wrench.
Retain inner section with string & small piece of wood (if req).
Position the inner disk / seal in the closed position within the upper / outer section.
Heat a large allen key and carefully melt the spindle into a button shape, allowing approximately 3mm for operation of valve.
This allows inflation and does not lock open or deflate.
Deflation is now only achievable by manual depression of afore mentioned button….. simples… or is it necessity is the mother of etc?

[Arghiro]

Oh, - my valves are in 2 parts (3 if you include the outer dust/ water cap) to deflate, simply unscrew the top half of the valve with the flappy seal bit in it. Dead simple, never gone wrong & probably dead cheap too (it's an old XM 235).

[Clyde_Wanderer]

I’ve replaced all the valves on my dinghy (4 of) over the last four years.
The main problem is that the little piece of plastic which is pushed upwards by a spring breaks, is then ejected by the spring resulting in deflation and loss of central component (plastic disc & rubber seal with / on spindle).

The fix:
Unscrew the upper / outer section of valve with a pair of long-nose pliers, do not need one of those (breaks at first use) plastic spanners / valve wrench.
Retain inner section with string & small piece of wood (if req).
Position the inner disk / seal in the closed position within the upper / outer section.
Heat a large allen key and carefully melt the spindle into a button shape, allowing approximately 3mm for operation of valve.
This allows inflation and does not lock open or deflate.
Deflation is now only achievable by manual depression of afore mentioned button….. simples… or is it necessity is the mother of etc?

John, what make of dinghy is it, if its a waveline or wetline or seago I have a broken valve with a servicable plunger, spring and flap, which you can have.
The valves come in dark and light grey, the one I have is the light grey.
C_W

[Clyde_Wanderer]

I’ve replaced all the valves on my dinghy (4 of) over the last four years.
The main problem is that the little piece of plastic which is pushed upwards by a spring breaks, is then ejected by the spring resulting in deflation and loss of central component (plastic disc & rubber seal with / on spindle).

The fix:
Unscrew the upper / outer section of valve with a pair of long-nose pliers, do not need one of those (breaks at first use) plastic spanners / valve wrench.
Retain inner section with string & small piece of wood (if req).
Position the inner disk / seal in the closed position within the upper / outer section.
Heat a large allen key and carefully melt the spindle into a button shape, allowing approximately 3mm for operation of valve.
This allows inflation and does not lock open or deflate.
Deflation is now only achievable by manual depression of afore mentioned button….. simples… or is it necessity is the mother of etc?

Speak to Nick, he is now an expert on this subject
Sorry Nick, couldent resist it.
C_W

[Nick]

.
I believe Silkie one has some knowledge of dinghy valve repairs - or if not will shortly be acquiring it . . .