Sealing windows into frames

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Silkie
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Sealing windows into frames

Postby Silkie » Wed Apr 06, 2016 8:27 pm

The windows themselves are 5mm Triplex glass and fit into rubber square U-section seals which in turn fit into a square U-section channels in the aluminium frames. The Seals+Direct technical advice page says that either polyurethane or high modulus silicone gloop is suitable for sealing glass to rubber and rubber to aluminium.

So which would be best given that I never want to have to do this job again?

(If it makes a difference I will also have to nick "vees" out of the seal walls to get around the tight radius corners of the frames. I put my chances of improving the drip rate no better than 50:50 :roll: )
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marisca
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Re: Sealing windows into frames

Postby marisca » Wed Apr 06, 2016 9:15 pm

I did this last year with a couple of my windows. I didn't need to cut the rubber for the bends, it's quite stretchy but had a bit of a job getting the glass and u-section into the channel - washing up liquid helped and I hope copious water washing afterwards get rid of it. Getting the length right for pushing the 2 halves of channel together was fiddly and took several goes - do put the join at the top of the window. For the sealant, I had been advised to trim the rubber down below the level of the frame and then apply and smooth. I used polyurethane gloop from Seals+Direct and bedded the frames on Butyl rubber tape.
It is one of these jobs that is so much easier after you've done one or two windows.
Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure is so much easier!

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Telo
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Re: Sealing windows into frames

Postby Telo » Wed Apr 06, 2016 10:35 pm

We replaced Shard's crazed and leaky windows about twelve or more years ago and just used bog standard silicone to seal them. Never had any leaks after that.

However, I was too liberal with the silicone and had a layer about 3 or 4mm along the edges of the outsides (bit like putty on the outside of sash windows). That discoloured over time and was slightly unsightly.

I found it a really awkward job and not one that I'll want to do again. Good luck with it.

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cpedw
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Re: Sealing windows into frames

Postby cpedw » Thu Apr 07, 2016 4:14 pm

I used butyl tape between glass and Aluminium frame. It would have been better if I had replaced the plastic spacers each side of the glass deep in the U of the frame. That way the glass stays evenly spaced in the frame.

Frame to glassfibre, I was less pleased with the butyl tape. It didn't work on all the windows. I found Arbokol 1000 non setting polysulphide (as recommended for Westerlys) was better.

In some places, I finished off the frame to glass seal with black CT1. It is good but messy unlike the butyl tape and arbokol.

Derek

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Silkie
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Re: Sealing windows into frames

Postby Silkie » Fri May 27, 2016 8:21 pm

Time for an update.

I discovered that the rubber was much more flexible than I had imagined and that stretching it sufficiently meant there were no wrinkles. We cut the rubber to length and super-glued the ends together to make a continuous loop before filling the bottom of the channel with gloop and stretching it over the glass, making quite a mess in the process. :) We then filled the aluminium frame with more gloop and clamped back round the glass. This went much better when we did it up the right way round. :oops:

Having learnt the lessons of the two previous gloopings we offered the frame up to the boat and masked off the boat (hint: a coloured masking tape makes this job much easier) before applying more gloop to the frame and clamping it back into the hole. I eventually used Unibond extreme repair sealant which is apparently guaranteed against everything until the end of time so I shouldn't have to do the job again.
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Shuggy
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Re: Sealing windows into frames

Postby Shuggy » Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:09 am

In case it helps others...

We have Triplex glass ports, some up to three feet long, let into a routered teak cabin trunk. They were all leaking (all 10 of them), and I took them all out this winter. To my horror I discovered that the three feet long ones were curved by up to 0.5 inches by nothing more than their stainless steel frames.

I took them out.

I cleaned up the teak.

I put CT1 on to the teak cabin trunk.

I heated up the glass with the Eberspacher outlet.

I put the glass in and then started fitting the s/s frames at the centre, using brown butyl mastic on the frames as a 'belt and braces' approach before tightening up all the screws.

I did all 10 and two weeks later used a Stanley knife blade to cut off all the excess CT1.

Eight months later we have no leaks and I am very pleased. All is dry down below. But I was convinced that one of the ports would shatter as a bent them. I didn't happen. Phew.
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Shuggy


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